We're still in Egypt. It's still April 12th.
I got to get up on a camel. One of the last things Jeremy said to me before I left was "ride a camel if you get the chance." But, I'm cheap. And I didn't want to pay $20 to do it. So I paid $2 and got to get up on this camel long enough for a photo. Well, you pay $2 to get down actually. As Wael said, "how much to get up on a camel? Free. Always free. But how much to get down?" It was only $2 here because Wael had arranged it with this man and his associate (and their camels). We heard stories of panicked tourists paying $40 or even $100 to get down off a camel. Who knows.
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I have a lot of photos of me on this camel. Wael had my camera.
It's quite a ride getting up and down on a camel. So fun! |
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| I'm no photographer, but tough to screw this one up. |
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The sphinx is big, but in this photo, we are standing on a cliff, kind of, in front of it.
So it looks a little smaller here than it really is. |
There was one very pushy vendor at the sphinx selling colorful Egypt books. A person gets the impression that some of these street vendors think they will impress us with their English skills, that knowing the slang phrase that will make us laugh will also make us buy. It is perhaps for this reason that my mom thought she might thwart them by speaking Spanish to them. They would see her, assume she spoke English, and address her in English. She would answer in Spanish. Guess what? They would just speak Spanish right back to her. After a long exchange with the pushy vendor here, in both English and Spanish, he finally let her go, for the moment, trying to compliment her by telling her she was not as bad as the pushy Russians. Later, catching up to us again, he told her she reminded him of his mother. Hmm. Good one, bro.
Also, what these photos of the sphinx do not show is that there were tons of people here. Countless times unwanted folks walked into my photo before I could take it.
We had the chance to go down inside one of the pyramids, and I thought, "how many times do you get that chance?" and I thought, "I'd better take it." Wael told us, first of all, that there's nothing down there. There's not really anything to see. You are doing this just for the experience of going down inside the pyramid. He also told us: you exit the same place you enter and it takes about 15 minutes. He warned that if some of us were afraid of small places, we might not like this. Of course, we all wanted to go inside. There's just one thing. I'm claustrophobic. Aren't you? No? Well, I am, and I don't really get why other people aren't. But. My mom said she'd go if I went, so Wael got us our tickets, made us put away our cameras, and led the way.
Another woman from our group told me she's very claustrophobic, but that she has some essential oils that help her. She told me she'd give me one of them so if I got feeling panicky I could sniff that. Uh, ok. Why not? How hard could this be?
Clutching this tiny bottle and with a group of tourists in front of me and behind me, I approached the pyramid entrance. There were enforcers there at the entrance checking tickets and looking inside our bags. They let us past and I saw the opening there in front of me. It looked like the mouth of a cave but with wooden stairs built onto it. The opening itself was not tall enough for me to walk into, and I had to duck quite a bit as the stairs began descending. My mom was a few people in front of me. We walked on a great wooden ramp with foot rungs bolted onto it. There were hand rails on both sides, and the ceiling we crouched beneath was rough-hewn rock.
I got about six steps down. Then everything in me said, "GET OUT NOW." And so I did. I called to my mom ahead and told her I was turning back. It was tricky turning back, both for me and her, a few steps ahead, because of all the people. The cave/corridor we were in was just big enough for people going down and up at the same time, but it took some negotiating. But she heard me turning back and came back also. Once I was out in the blessed daylight again, I remembered the essential oil in my fist and began sniffing it and taking deep breaths to calm the rising panic in my self.
And so for the next 10 or so minutes, I tried. I talked myself into it. I steeled myself. Several times, I stepped into the cave there and began going down. And each time, my phobia got the best of me.
I wasn't happy with that. I waited until the passageway was mostly clear--no people to block my escape. Then I tried again, saying, "It's ok" to myself with nearly every step downward into darkness. And this time I just kept going when I felt like I would suffocate under the tons of rock above me. It's ok. It's ok.
At last I reached the bottom of the ramp and found that there was a stone chamber larger than my kitchen there with lights and a ceiling of decent height. I could stand and breathe myself into calm before continuing on. I faced further into the pyramid now and saw that to continue I would have to bend down and pass under the low place in the corridor ahead. My calm fled as I imagined myself doing that, going further in. I turned around and faced the great ramp. Facing this way I could see the daylight, and I could breathe calmly. I waited, then turned around again to keep going.
And you know what, I just couldn't. I guess I didn't want to see the empty chambers on the other side of that low corridor bad enough to turn my back on the daylight, crouch almost in half under massive stones, and go on.
Here's why. And this is where you may learn more about me than you want to know. As I stood in there with my back to the way to freedom, all I could think of is that this is what my bad dreams look like. I thought it at the entrance to the pyramid, too. I dream it often and have for years. I am in a tunnel. There is darkness. At first it is comfortable and I am perfectly safe. But imperceptibly, the tunnel is becoming smaller and smaller until I am stuck in there.
I can't get out. Or, I come to a place that is just big enough for me to squeeze myself through and I
have to do it
--it's the only way. Or I come to a dead end. I turn around to go the way I came and find it's changed and I can't get out that way either.
I exited. As I ascended, many German-speaking tourists passed me going the other way. I said the only thing I could to them about my experience, "schade. Schade." A few minutes later, I was out.
I love being out.